Defi is a brand name for aftermarkets used by Nippon Seiki Co., Ltd. Which designs and produces automobile instrument clusters over 70years. We, -Defi-, design and develop additional gauges and displays for vehicles. Defi profile Product lineup is linkable gauges, BF gauges, OLED displays, and so on.
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthr...ll+boost+gauge IamHung
This is a how-to on a Defi boost gauge install that was done on Villan's EVO. The install was done in a garage with basic hand tools in a few hours working really slow and really carefully. Please refer to other how-tos on how to remove the glovebox and steering column cover.
Note: Please use your best judgement when trying to do the install. I will not be held responsible for damages done to your vehicle by using these instructions. You assume all liability. Know your limitations. With that said, on we go...
Here is the Defi white faced boost gauge. (note the sexy car in the background)
Start out by removing the glove box. Please refer to the how-to posted by other users. It should take no more than a minute to remove the glove box out. It's really easy.
Once the glove box is removed, go back to the engine bay. Behind the passenger shock tower you should see a black rubber grommet. Carefully manipulate your hand in the limited amount of space and push the grommet through the firewall. It should pop out inside the car. Have someone keep an eye out on the inside to track the grommet as it pops out. This is what you should see when after the grommet is pushed into the car.
Get the grommet from inside the car and prep it for the vacuum line. The Defi vac line is pretty thick in diameter so you will need a large drill bit to make and enlarge the hole. Work slow and increase the bit size until the proper clearance is made.
Here's the line slid into the grommet.
Once the hole is made into the grommet, I suggest you route the vacuum line for the boost gauge.
Have someone inside the car feed the line through this hole.
The other person should grasp the line from the engine bay and pull out some line.
Here's the line through the firewall with the grommet put back in.
The grommet will take some force from the inside of the car to be put back into it's spot. You might need the help of something long to push on the grommet. We used an ASP baton. You can use your hands to push on it some more.
Once the line is routed into the engine bay, give yourself enough slack to be able to connect to the FPR line. Make sure the inside has enough slack also to be routed towards the steering column.
Once vacuum line length was confirmed and all was well, we went ahead and tapped into the appropriate FPR line.
Cut and put your 'T' into this line here. I removed the plastic coil wrap.
The line is cut in half and the 'T' connected. Here's the finished product. I went ahead and ziptied the connections and also wrapped conduit/wire loom around the vacuum line to give it a presentable look. The line was ziptied to the strut bar to tidy things up a bit.
That pretty much takes care of the engine part of the install.
You should be able to see the vacuum line inside the car now. You will need to route it to the driver's side. We routed the line from the passenger side underneath and went where the arrow is pointing.
It comes out to the driver side like this. I taped a bicycle spoke to the end of the vac line to help feed it through.
Next feed it up into the steering column and pull it out.
This should take care of the vacuum line for now. Next you will need to make the electrical connections to your gauge.
NOTE: Before removing the steering column, make sure you mark the area where you want to mount your pod. An autometer pod was used in this install. Take the column cover off using already posted instructions and drill pilot holes for the screws on the pod bracket.
Mount the bracket with the supplied screws. We went ahead and masked the cover and spray painted the bolts to blend them in a little. We used Satin Black spray paint. Any brand should work.
Set that aside to dry. Now it's time to wire the gauge.
We went ahead and tapped into the harness that is attached to the rheostat/cluster dimmer switch. We used the green wire with the white stripe from the blue harness connector.
First, pop out the dimmer switch assembly. Use something thin the pry out the assembly. I used a thin feeler gauge. You can use a screw driver but be really careful.
After that is done, carefully unplug the harnesses and pushed them out through the side so there is easier access to the wires.
You will need to tap into the green/white stripe now. If you use this wire, the boost gauge will light up when the headlight switch is turned on. HOWEVER, you will not be able to dim the boost gauge. It's either on or off. A simple wire tap will do the job.
I grounded the black wire from the boost gauge on the bolt pictured using a spade connector.
With the connections made, you can test out the gauge to see if it lights up. Don't start the car but rather just turn on the accessories because the vac line is not attached yet. Plug the dimmer switch up and hit the headlight switch. The light should come on if everything was connected properly.
Next trim the necessary amount of vac line and install the line in the back of the gauge. Get your painted column cover and mount the remainder of the gauge pod and gauge. You can used more wire loom to dress up the electrical wires of the gauge. Put everything back together in reverse order. Here's the final pic of the install. I probably skipped some steps but the install is very straight forward.
Enjoy.
This is a how-to on a Defi boost gauge install that was done on Villan's EVO. The install was done in a garage with basic hand tools in a few hours working really slow and really carefully. Please refer to other how-tos on how to remove the glovebox and steering column cover.
Note: Please use your best judgement when trying to do the install. I will not be held responsible for damages done to your vehicle by using these instructions. You assume all liability. Know your limitations. With that said, on we go...
Here is the Defi white faced boost gauge. (note the sexy car in the background)
Start out by removing the glove box. Please refer to the how-to posted by other users. It should take no more than a minute to remove the glove box out. It's really easy.
Once the glove box is removed, go back to the engine bay. Behind the passenger shock tower you should see a black rubber grommet. Carefully manipulate your hand in the limited amount of space and push the grommet through the firewall. It should pop out inside the car. Have someone keep an eye out on the inside to track the grommet as it pops out. This is what you should see when after the grommet is pushed into the car.
Get the grommet from inside the car and prep it for the vacuum line. The Defi vac line is pretty thick in diameter so you will need a large drill bit to make and enlarge the hole. Work slow and increase the bit size until the proper clearance is made.
Here's the line slid into the grommet.
Once the hole is made into the grommet, I suggest you route the vacuum line for the boost gauge.
Have someone inside the car feed the line through this hole.
The other person should grasp the line from the engine bay and pull out some line.
Here's the line through the firewall with the grommet put back in.
The grommet will take some force from the inside of the car to be put back into it's spot. You might need the help of something long to push on the grommet. We used an ASP baton. You can use your hands to push on it some more.
Once the line is routed into the engine bay, give yourself enough slack to be able to connect to the FPR line. Make sure the inside has enough slack also to be routed towards the steering column.
Once vacuum line length was confirmed and all was well, we went ahead and tapped into the appropriate FPR line.
Cut and put your 'T' into this line here. I removed the plastic coil wrap.
The line is cut in half and the 'T' connected. Here's the finished product. I went ahead and ziptied the connections and also wrapped conduit/wire loom around the vacuum line to give it a presentable look. The line was ziptied to the strut bar to tidy things up a bit.
That pretty much takes care of the engine part of the install.
You should be able to see the vacuum line inside the car now. You will need to route it to the driver's side. We routed the line from the passenger side underneath and went where the arrow is pointing.
It comes out to the driver side like this. I taped a bicycle spoke to the end of the vac line to help feed it through.
Next feed it up into the steering column and pull it out.
This should take care of the vacuum line for now. Next you will need to make the electrical connections to your gauge.
NOTE: Before removing the steering column, make sure you mark the area where you want to mount your pod. An autometer pod was used in this install. Take the column cover off using already posted instructions and drill pilot holes for the screws on the pod bracket.
Mount the bracket with the supplied screws. We went ahead and masked the cover and spray painted the bolts to blend them in a little. We used Satin Black spray paint. Any brand should work.
Set that aside to dry. Now it's time to wire the gauge.
We went ahead and tapped into the harness that is attached to the rheostat/cluster dimmer switch. We used the green wire with the white stripe from the blue harness connector.
First, pop out the dimmer switch assembly. Use something thin the pry out the assembly. I used a thin feeler gauge. You can use a screw driver but be really careful.
After that is done, carefully unplug the harnesses and pushed them out through the side so there is easier access to the wires.
You will need to tap into the green/white stripe now. If you use this wire, the boost gauge will light up when the headlight switch is turned on. HOWEVER, you will not be able to dim the boost gauge. It's either on or off. A simple wire tap will do the job.
I grounded the black wire from the boost gauge on the bolt pictured using a spade connector.
With the connections made, you can test out the gauge to see if it lights up. Don't start the car but rather just turn on the accessories because the vac line is not attached yet. Plug the dimmer switch up and hit the headlight switch. The light should come on if everything was connected properly.
Next trim the necessary amount of vac line and install the line in the back of the gauge. Get your painted column cover and mount the remainder of the gauge pod and gauge. You can used more wire loom to dress up the electrical wires of the gauge. Put everything back together in reverse order. Here's the final pic of the install. I probably skipped some steps but the install is very straight forward.
Enjoy.
Tools Needed:
- Defi hardware
- 42Design 1/8NPT adapter
- Teflon tape
- Electrical tape
- Jack & Stands
- Small Flashlight
- Phillips and Flathead
- 4' & 8' black UV zip ties
- Snips or scissors
- 8mm HEX key & pry bar
- 10mm wrench
- 17mm wrench
- 11/16 wrench
- 3/8 drill
Glovebox:
Use the Glovebox Removal directions for illustrations on how to remove the glovebox. (http://www.evolution-8.com/howto/glovebox.php)
Grommet:
In the passenger corner side of the engine bay you will see a black grommet that leads into the cab. This is just behind the glovebox. Push the grommet from the engine bay into the cab. You may want to put piece of paper on the inside of the cab, just below the grommet, to deflect it towards the cab so you do not loose it once it is pushed through.
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Use a 3/8 drill bit to tap a whole into the grommet. A 3/8 inch hole will allow enough room for 2 defi sensor wires to fit with a little play.
Boost Pressure Sensor:
Find the black w/ blue striped vacuum tube located to the left of the throttle body, on the passenger side, and disconnect it. Cut a short piece off of the Defi supplied vacuum hose, connect it the engine and the other end to the center port on the T adapter. Next connect the OEM vacuum tube to one side of the T and the Defi hose to the other. You may want to trim some excess length from the OEM and Defi tubes. Attach the Defi Boost Sensor to the 10mm bolt location illustrated below. Connect the vacuum hose to the sensor and run the Defi electrical connection from the sensor to the glove box grommet hole and into the cab for the Control Unit II installation. Use the 4' zip ties on each vacuum connection and snip any zip tie tails.
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Oil Pressure/Temp Sensor:
Loosen the lugs on the front passenger wheel, jack the front of the car up and place it on blocks. Remove the front passenger wheel. Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the 4 pull clips and then remove the oil filter wheel well cover.
Just above the oil filter is an 8mm HEX bolt that will be removed to attach the oil pressure/temp sensor. There is a second location, lower on the oil filter housing, that can be used but the upper connection is usually preferred. You can attach a pressure sensor to one and a temp sensor to the other. You will need to remove the oil filter to access the lower 8mm bolt location but it is not necessary with the upper location.
Use the 8mm HEX key and attach a pole or pry bar for leverage as these bolts are on REALLY TIGHT. Break the 8mm bolt loose but leave it in place. A 1/8NPT reducer is needed to attach sensors to these locations. The 42Design 1/8NPT adapter is suggested. If you will be using the lower oil bolt location, you may need to use the 45 degree angle connection which comes with the 42Design reducer, otherwise; you can use the oil bolt location above the oil filter which does not require the angle adapter. Apply teflon tape to the sensor threads and screw it into the reducer using a 11/16 and 17mm wrench. Apply teflon tape to the reducer. Remove the now loosened 8mm bolt and quickly insert the reducer and tighten it with a 11/16 size wrench. This method will limit the loss of oil.
Attach the Defi electrical connection to the sensor. Use the 8' zip ties to run your wires into the glove box grommet hole then into the cab for the Control Unit II install. You will notice electrical tape on the end of my sensor which I attached for additional weather protection.
Defi Control Unit II:
Use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative connection on your battery. Use the Stereo Surround directions for removing the stereo from your dash. Run the CUII electrical connection wire behind the dash and up through the stereo opening. Use the Defi supplied wire taps to splice into the radio wiring harness using the following color combinations.
Control Unit II Radio Harness
Red - Â* Â*Red w/ Black Stipe
Orange -Â* Blue w/ Yellow Stripe
White - Â* Green w/ White Strip
Black - Â* Â*Bolt near radio
I prefer mounting the CUII under the center cubby. You can try to use the included double sided tape but I had troubles with it staying on so I used epoxy. You can still remove the cubby, even with the CUII attached. Remove the 2 phillips screws located under the cubby opening and pull it towards the cab. Being that the center cubby is detachable, this will allow for easier connections to the back of the CUII. Run the sensor cable connections behind the dash and to the appropriately labeled connection on the CUII. If you are using more than one sensor, use 4' zip ties to keep the sensor wires together. Use 8' zip ties to attach the sensor wires to different areas under the dash.
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Defi Gauges:
The Defi Link and Defi BF gauges allow you to chain the gauges together so that only a single wire needs to run from the CUII to your gauge mounting locations. The back of each gauge has 2 connections and it does not matter which one is used to daisy chain or for the master run back to the CUII. If you are using the BF gauges you will need to attach your gauge wire to meter port B. If you are using Defi Link gauges, you will attach your gauge wire to meter port A. You cannot mix Defi Link and Defi BF gauge types together.
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Re-attach the negative terminal of your battery and turn your car on to check that your gauges start up. Run the car for a while to insure there are no oil leaks from the oil sensors before re-attaching the wheel and dropping your car. Hit the Warning button then the up and down buttons on the CUII to set the warning or alarm values on each gauge.
from: http://www.evolution-8.com/howto/defi.php#defi1